Tuesday July 21: As Sexias to Melide (9.5 mi)

Ana:  We spent our last night on the primitivo. What a glorious ending to a demanding journey.  Out in the middle of nowhere in a humble farmhouse we found paradise. Carlos wrote about this in the blog yesterday. I will add some photos to relive this wonderful night.

Dinner

Breakfast was delightful with a full spread of meat, cheese, toast, fruit, and cereal.  It was difficult to leave this morning, but we are thankful for this slice of heaven on the Camino.

We had a short walk today because yesterday was so long.  Weather was perfect and all we had to do is conquer our last hill.

Not a problem, on the other side we could see Melide in the distance.

Our first morning stop was at a bar where we got our first taste of the mass humanity to come.  I watched several groups wearing very small packs and couldn’t figure out how they could carry enough for four days.  Upon arriving at our hotel, the answer was evident.  By the check in desk were 50 suitcases all with transport tags. They had sent their clothes ahead.  You mean, I didn’t have to lug this backpack all over Spain?  Actually, I did.  Those doing the Norte and primitivo don’t have as much access to the transport services, so we all carried full packs.

At the bar, we were watching 2 dogs guard the area and devour the scraps.  Junk yard dogs who love boccadillos.  They were a couple and had 2 puppies.  The hostess brought out the pups for us to see.  Momma watched Carola very carefully.

Arriving in Melide today we went in search of the hotel.  We were all turned around and saw pilgrims everywhere.  Time for a consult.

Found  the hotel and did our usual cleanup, then off to find supper.

After food we visited the church of Iglasis in Melide.

We watched hoards of people arrive, on foot, bicycle, and horseback.  After the last 35 days of solitude, we are in shock.  The Cailfornia Cousins warned us, but there is nothing like being here.

We plan on leaving early tomorrow.

Carlos: What do you want to do tomorrow?

Ana: How about taking a long walk with a lot of other people?

Just another day on the Camino.

CC: There was a bet placed yesterday in the comments that I would make sure all the Frances pilgrims knew that I had accomplished the Primitivo. After reading those comments, I submitted a comment that said you all would lose that bet, and I would explain why today. So here’s why: The camino is not a distance. It is not a contest. It has nothing to do with anyone else. It derives whatever meaning it has from the individual doing it. I wanted to do a lengthy one, because I felt that it would have more meaning to me if I was out of my normal element for awhile. We collectively chose the del Norte/Primitivo as a consequence of schedule conflicts and pilgrim density. At no time did I pick the Primitivo because of its reputation or difficulty. I just felt that it would be nice to go through some mountains verses stay near the coast the entire route (as the del Norte does). While there were difficult parts, I’m certain it was no more difficult than hiking in 109 degree temps. And that’s what the folks were doing for weeks on the Frances. So you lose the bet for two reasons: what others decide to do for their camino has no relevance to my camino, and even if it did the Frances was tougher during this time period.